SHISHAPANGMA 2002

I am confident that after two expeditions, I am experienced enough to return back to Himalayas. Steve Bell and Jagged Globe put together a super team of Sherpas with Nima Temba Sherpa as sirdar. At the end of August 2002, I am back in Kathmandu.

Although it is difficult to imagine, the traffic is even more terrible and not too many people stop to receive a blessing from a holy man.

But the sculptured couple from one of the temples at Durbar Square still finds some time to watch a snake charmer. Luckily I remember that if you can see the hood of the cobra you are safe, because the snake is facing in the opposite direction.

We stop near the Town of Nylam, for a three-day long acclimatization, where we meet smiling Tibetan girls from a village near the Friendship Highway. On the way to base camp (CBC) at 5,000 m we encounter traveling nomads.

The base camp is located on a grassy field situated on the right bank of a small river flowing from the Shishapangma glacier. After a couple of days of acclimatization it is time to pack the yaks for a trip to the advanced base camp (ABC).

On the way to the ABC we can finally see our goal - the summit of Shishapangma. The ABC camp at 5,600 m  is established on a lateral moraine and as far as we can convince our yaks to travel. We have a very luxurious accommodation - a private tent for every climber, an orange half-dome tent for meals and social gathering, a small blue tent for the latrine and another blue tent for the shower. A large blue tent is occupied by the cook and his two helpers while a white tent contains the equipment and communication centre (internet and satellite phones).

After a mandatory Puja Ceremony, our Sherpas quickly establish Depot Camp at 5,800 m at the end of the lateral moraine. This is as far as we can walk without snow and ice equipment. From this camp we have a fantastic view on the upper slopes of Shishapangma.

To get to Camp 1 we have to cross the glacier. This is the only technical climbing on our route to the summit. After that, a gentle slope leads us all the way up to Camp 1 at 6,400 m. The weather remains excellent and our progress is very quick.

A few days later another gentle slope leads us to the upper valley, the site of Camp 2. Lenticular cloud caused by high winds in the upper atmosphere surrounds one of the lower peaks.

On the way we stop to rest and admire the final summit ridge of Shishapangma. The weather is very hot and we have to wear our bandanas to protect our necks from the sun. We can clearly see our friends approaching Camp 2 in the middle of the snowy field. We are all healthy and strong, and the next day all of us (9) are going to reach the summit.

Five days later we are still in Camp 2. A late snow storm, with winds approaching 100 km/hour, keeps us in the tents until the food and fuel supplies are totally exhausted. The approach slopes to Camp 2 are constantly swept by avalanches and even our Sherpas are afraid to resupply our camp.

High winds bring a tiny bird all the way from the valleys to the south and 3,000 m lower. Unfortunately our rescue mission is not successful, little flyer does not survive the night. It is time to abandon the climb. It takes us six hours to crawl our way down to Camp 1, a trip that took only 45 minutes during normal weather. Only a great sense of direction and the long years of mountaineering experience of our leader Steve Bell save us from falling down with avalanches. I cannot believe that being so close, I did not reach the summit. Sliding and crawling down I am determined never again to get myself into such a situation. Next vacation - a Caribbean Cruise.

Back in the ABC camp we can watch the storm end and the mountain covered with tons of fresh snow. Even if we have time and resources to try again, the snow conditions are too difficult to attempt another climb. As I am walking back to the CBC camp, while observing high level clouds closely approximating the contour of the ridge, my dark thoughts disappear and I know that the journey became more important than the goal. I know that I am going to try again.