TRYING FOR THE SUMMIT

We start climbing at 4:00 am. It is very cold, around -30 deg C. Unfortunately, the weather deteriorates very rapidly and by the time we reach the Denali Pass, we are faced with a wind in excess of 160 km/hour. We can barely stay on the trail and only our axes, driven hard into well compacted snow, keep us from being blown back down to Camp 4. It is not possible to continue. All the other climbers moving with us have already turned back. Slowly... Very slowly, step by step we descend. I'm careful with every step that a sudden gust of wind will not upset my balance. After an hour we are back in Camp 4, where the weather is nice and sunny. The storm in the upper levels of the mountain continues until late afternoon.

The sunny weather in the afternoon brings back smiles and a hope for the following day.

 The next day (June 20), we start again early in the morning. Following the well set trail, we quickly traverse up to the Pass. We are almost at the same place as the previous day when the storm returns. Within minutes we are back fighting to stay on the trail. Further climbing is no longer possible. While descending back to Camp 4, I feel very tired. The heavy wind and cold make my breathing very difficult. I am definitely trying my best but I no longer have strength and will to continue.

In the afternoon I decide to quit. I hate myself and know very well that I will regret this decision for the rest of my life. Wynn and Costas have been great partners and I owe them a chance to reach the summit. At midnight, the guys leave the tent and I bury my face in the sleeping bag and try to forget about the mountain.

Without me Wynn and Costas reach the summit and return back in 12 hours.