Acclimatization

The Base Camp is located at an elevation of 5350 m (17,552 ft) on the north side of the Khumbu Glacier below the lower slopes of Khumbutse at 6639 m (21,781 ft). It has grown very quickly to a little town. This year there are 210 climbing permits. With an average ratio of one climbing Sherpa per climber, including cooks and cooks’ helpers, the total population of the 2005 Everest Base Camp is probably around 500 people.

Before any action can happen on the mountain, the Sherpas, who are Buddhists, organize a religious ceremony called Puja. Sherpas build a stone altar, which is surrounded by different offerings: rice, barley flour, chocolate bars, Coca Cola, St. Miguel Beer, etc. The Leader of the expedition, leader of the Sherpas and Lama sit in front of the altar. The Lama recites prayers and occasionally sprinkles the altar with rice. Each member of the expedition receives special blessings.

Our Puja ceremony is interrupted by a spectacular avalanche falling from Lho La at 6006 m (19,705 ft).

The altar will remain for the duration of the expedition. I am happy to display the colours of my sponsors.

The true acclimatization starts within a few days after Puja. Our goal will be to reach Camp 3 located at 7200 m. At first we have to climb the Khumbu Icefall, a 700 meter high wall of ice blocks ranging from a few kilograms to several tons. This is the most difficult and dangerous part of the climb. I will have to repeat it five times. So far I have done it four times. The final time will be during the climb to the summit.

Large crevasses (openings in the ice surface) are crossed on aluminum ladders, roped together to accommodate variable widths.

Camp 1 is set at 6050 m (19,849 ft) right at the top of the Icefall. This is a transitional camp only, not fit for longer occupation. It is used only when a climber is too tired after climbing the Icefall to continue to Camp 2.

From Camp 1, the Western Cwm valley opens up and the route to Camp 2 is crossed across numerous crevasses. Camp 2 is located at 6400 m (20,997 ft) on a lateral moraine just below the South-West Face of Everest. To the north, the Western Cwm is closed by a 1600 m (5,249 ft) high Lhotse Face. Camp 3 is located half-way up the face at 7200 m (23,622 ft).

After spending three days in Camp 2, we climb to Camp 3 and spend the night there. Unfortunately the weather worsens during the night and in the morning we have to move back to Camp 2. There, the outdoor temperature is around -30°C (-22°F) and the wind blows at around 60-70 km/h (37- 43 mph).

Today, I returned back to the Base Camp. This is the official end of the Acclimatization Period. The day after tomorrow, I will be descending down to Deboche to regain my lost weight of about 10 kg (22 lbs).

We will now have to wait for the so called "window of opportunity", a 5-day weather forecast which will give us decent weather for the summit attempt.

Jordan, my son, is leaving tomorrow. He will join me in the Base Camp around May 13^th. There will be no dispatches until our return to Toronto, which is anticipated at the end of May. Please remember that no news, is good news.