APRIL 8,
2005
After
a day of rest at Namche Bazzar on April 2nd, our trek continues to Deboche. After descending down to the bottom of the valley,
we cross the Imja Khola River and stop for drinks at Phunki Tenga (3250 m).
The gradually
rising trail through pine and rhododendron forests brings us to the
centre court of Tengboche Monastery (3880 m).
 The
monastery was built in 1916 on request by the abbot of the Rongbuk
Monastery located on the north side of Mount Everest. The main Gompa was
partially destroyed in an earthquake in 1934. The second catastrophe
occurred in 1989, about one year after the new electric installation. An
overturned electric heater burned the Gompa to the ground. It was
rebuilt with donations from American Himalayan Foundation and local
people. The entrance to the Gompa is through an elaborate gate crowned
with the Wheel of Life guarded by two deer.
From
the courtyard I enjoy a beautiful view of a small stupa
and
mountains in the background.
From
Tengboche, the trail continues along the north slopes of Thamserku and
Kangtenga. On our way, I pass through the old village of Pengboche, which
used to be the highest permanently occupied village in the area. 
The
west
face of Ama Dablam dominates the eastern horizon. The Imja Khola
River valley is closed from the right Lhotse Shar, Lhotse
and Nuptse. A long plume of snow-clouds signifies high winds on the
summit of Everest.
 
I have
to share the trail to Dingboche with numerous caravans bringing supplies
to local villages and the Everest Base Camp. The Khumbu is one of a very few
remaining places on Earth where a wheel has not found any use. All of
the goods are carried by porters or yaks.
During
our three day stay in Dinboche, we climb three smaller peaks.
After
that we travel along the eastern slopes of Taboche (6387 m) to Lobuche
(4910 m).
After
13 days of travel I arrive at the end of the Khumbu Glacier Valley, the
site of the Everest Base Camp. The camp is located on the left side of
the picture, just below the triangular dark slopes of Khumbutse. The Ice
Fall is to the right of the camp. The black triangular peak of Everest is
visible between Nuptse on the right and the Everest West Shoulder in the
centre of the picture.
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