CHO OYU 2004

I needed a long time to recover emotionally after Denali. I was determined to forget about mountains, but they were stronger than me. My resolve lasted until the spring of 2004. I decided to try again. I set my sights on Gasherbrum II in Karakoram. But Osama was hiding somewhere in the northern Afghanistan or Pakistan and nobody was willing to travel there. In the last moment Jagged Globe canceled their trip and I was offered a chance to go to Cho Oyu or Shishapangma. I decided to try Cho Oyu.

This is my third visit to Nepal and Tibet. I skip traditional sightseeing of Kathmandu. One day after arriving in Nepal, I am on a bus to Kodari, driving along a highway, badly damaged by monsoon rains. We stop at Nylam and Tingri for acclimatization. To my surprise, a wild trail from Tingri to base camp (CBC) is replaced with a modern, gravel road, which offers tantalizing glimpses of Cho Oyu.

After a couple of days in the CBC, our yaks carry almost three tons of our gear to the Advanced Base Camp. Half way to the ABC, an enterprising Tibetan family setup a tea house, offering cold and hot drinks and other refreshments to the passing climbers and porters. Somehow the wife finds time not only to prepare the drinks and meals, but also to take care of her children.

The ABC camp (5,600 m) is established on a lateral moraine of the Gyabrag Glacier across from Nangpa La. As on Shishapangma, we have individual tents for the climbers, a half dome tent for meals, a large tent for the kitchen, and small tents for the shower and the latrine. I display my flag to let everybody know that Canadians are back at Cho Oyu.

As soon as the Puja Ceremony is finished, our Sherpas leave to start setting the upper camps.

Camp 1 (6,200 m) is established at the top of the Killer Scree, a 300 m high gravel hill. From this camp we can clearly see the route to the summit. In the next few days, we push our way up the mountain all the way to Camp 2 at 7,050 m. On the way to Camp 2 we have to climb a serac barrier, the only technical climb on Cho Oyu.

From Camp 2 we have great views of Camp 1, the ABC and Shishapangma on the western horizon.

After a couple of days of rest at the ABC, we are ready for the summit. Our Sherpas leave a day earlier, after a short prayer at the Puja altar, to establish Camp 3 at 7,400 m. Our team follows a day later.

Wyn Morgan and I spend one night in Camp 1, one night in Camp 2 and later climb to Camp 3.

On September 25 at 2:00 AM we leave Camp 3 for the summit. We climb through the night and are rewarded by an incredible sunrise at around 6:30 AM. The raising sun is well below our feet at the beginning. The weather is perfect and after climbing through the main difficulties we stop to admire the view to the west. As before we can clearly see the ABC Camp in the valley and Shishapangma on the horizon.

At 10:30 AM, I reach the summit. I almost cry when the famous view of Mount Everest suddenly appears in front of me. After four years and four unsuccessful expeditions I have finally reached a summit. At this moment I wish that the Cho Oyu could be another 650 meters higher. That would make it higher than Everest. The weather remains perfect, with plenty of sunshine and no wind. I start to perspire and decide to remove my mittens and unzip my jacket. Thundu Sherpa, who is climbing with me, and I spend about four hours near the top waiting for Wyn to get to the summit. All three of us return safely to Camp 3 only a few minutes before the night.

Next day our Sherpas and some local porters carry our camp equipment back to the ABC.

On the way back to the ABC we have time to explore the Gyabrag Glacier with its fantastic formation of ice mushrooms and snow spires.

The expedition is over and after barren deserts of the Tibetan Plateau, we all welcome the lushness of Nepal's valleys still drenched with monsoon rains. Even before returning to Kathmandu I am already planning my next expedition.

The vision of the tall peak to the east of Cho Oyu is constantly on my mind. This is the ultimate mountaineering challenge - Everest. I know that I am going to commit the next two years of my life to that challenge. At that moment, the Seven Summits Quest is born.