PAMPA DE LENAS

After an early breakfast, (the last regular breakfast for more than two weeks) we drive back 10 kilometers (6 miles) to the entrance of the Vacas Valley. This valley is the only access route to Aconcagua from the east. It was originally used by The First Polish Expedition in 1934. Before starting our trek we get together for a team picture.

Today we are trekking to Pampa de Lenas, a campsite located 18 kilometers (11 miles) away and 440 meters (1,450 feet) higher. The trail gently rises following the Vacas River, which carries melt water and silt from the high glaciers to the north.

It is the middle of the summer and most of the small streams are dry. The ones which are still flowing are beautifully framed with wild flowers.

We stop every hour for a short rest, a bit of food and drink. As we climb higher, the trail becomes more rugged and beautiful.

Refugo Pampa de Lenas welcomes us after 6 hours of trekking. It is located 2,800 meters (9,200 feet) above sea level. A small stone house is a summer home for the Aconcagua Park rangers. Our caravan of pack mules arrives an hour later. They started the trek several hours after us.

Pack mules carry on average 80 kilograms (175 lbs) and travel at least twice as fast as the best hikers. The are guided by Arrieros, a descendants of indigenous people living in the foothills of the Andes in Chile and Argentina.

In the evening we have asado (an Argentinean BBQ) and listen to arrieros' songs.